|
|
Post by m8kerrc on Dec 22, 2016 3:31:47 GMT
ok guys i need a little help here , first time using Smoothieware my other printer runs Marlin so im a little confuse with some things . i have my printer ready but im trying to set things up before doing the first print. so here's a couple of questions
Step per MM.
im having wrong readings for the mm movements specially on the Z axis EX. from Z0 to max the pronterface is reading 510mm im guessing this has to do with the microstepping i put the steppers . i put them all on 1/32 . so the real question is at what microstepping you guys are running the printer .
Z homming
Im not clear how i should set my Z height after i home the Z axis i tried to set it via the lcd Set Z0 but as soon i power off the printer this seams to be lost . i know you guys are setting the Max Travel to a specific height but a little more details will help me figure this out. on my older printer i have ABL(bltouch) so its been a long time since i dont manually set Z height.
ALso when the Z axis hit the endtop the motor keeps making a hoooming sound. right now
Z OFFset .
Im not able to enter the configure option thru the LCD . where in the config file i can set this up.?
Network
i see that i can set an ip adress for the printer . can the printer be set to a network and be controller remotely without a Raberry Pi?
Proper way to save changes on the config file
do i have to remove the Sd card or can i access via usb , and save it directly and just reboot the printer?
thanks and sorry for my english.
|
|
|
|
Post by m8kerrc on Dec 22, 2016 3:41:01 GMT
The "proper" way to set your offset is to first tighten down all of the springs all the way. Then home the printer and move it to Z0. Next you want to jog past 0 (use a g92 z10 command if you are being stopped by software endstops). Keep track of how far you're moving. Then you will set this number in the z offset within the lcd/eeprom settings (as a positive number). You want to make this so it is about 1mm off of the back middle of the bed. Then you can go abuot with your standard leveling procedure. To fine tune the first layer, you can edit the z offset value. a bigger number brings the nozzle closer, smaller brings further away. got it . thanks for the reply. but first i need to adjust my microstepping or step per MM . my printer is huge now with 510mm Z height  . lol. also i havent figure out why everything works on the lcd but the configure tab. or how i can set this directly to the config file. or eeprom . |
|
|
|
Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 22, 2016 17:58:28 GMT
Gotcha, well the standard microstepping is 1/16 for the z and e axes, so if you are using 1/32 for all axes you will need to double the steps/mm for both of these axes in the config.txt file. The z axis is also called the "gamma" axis, and the e axis is found under the extruder section. Hopefully that helps.
The endstops do bounce back after triggering the first time, so that may be what you're seeing. The z axis will move very slowly up and down a few mm to verify position as accurately as possible. Make sure your z axis cables aren't getting caught underneath the bearings as that can prevent the bed from fully homing. After homing, you can adjust the z homing offset in the lcd then save to eeprom using the custom menu entry I made under the custom tab. How it works is essentially when you home, it will add whatever value you input here to the value it should be set. So normal homing will set the z height to 255mm after homing. Adding a value of 3 to the offset will set the new value to 258mm after every homing. This in turn will reduce the distance between the nozzle and the bed by 3mm when you move to Z=0. I'll write up a proper z axis homing and leveling guide tomorrow!
For the network, yes in theory you should be able to, although I have not tried this yet! It is designed to work with something like repetier server. Your printer will be given an ip address on your network which you should be able to connect to from any other computer on the network in order to add files, print, control, etc.
You can save files directly to the sd card via usb connection, but it is not recommended to make any config changes this way as it can cause errors or possibly accidentally delete the file forcing you to start from scratch again.
|
|
|
|
Post by dkrockville on Dec 23, 2016 0:39:00 GMT
Andrew, since I use a Mac with the current MacOS (Sierra) there is no longer support for serial ports over USB. I plan to use a network connection. I'll post my results after I test it.
Don
|
|
|
|
Post by dravenm4 on Dec 24, 2016 17:28:59 GMT
Merry Christmas to you all. Well I am seeing some issues here. The printer doesn't seem to be seeing my Y-EndStop, So when homing all axis from the Viki It does the X-axis and right to the Z???
Next, anytime this machine hits the Z-EndStop it causes a HALT... So I have to clear the HALT before it will do anything else at all. Also my original Azteeg board Self-destructed do to a surface mount Capacitor being install backwards. Huge sigh of relief there now that I know I didnt kill it.
|
|
|
|
Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 24, 2016 18:34:42 GMT
Ah well that's good to hear, it's always good when it isn't your fault  For the Y endstop, did you enable this in the firmware? I didn't have mine neabled in the firmware I provided since my printer is still missing that endstop. The settings for the x and y endstops should be identical other than the fact that they are for different axes. I'll be updating my prototype with all the latest beta fixtures and endstops after the holidays so that I can provide an updated and fully proper firmware for everyone, unfortunately with the holidays I won't have much time until after! |
|
|
|
Post by tkelley on Dec 26, 2016 5:33:44 GMT
We actually covered that problem in the 'Printer Progress' thread. I had the same problem. 'in the config file, the Beta endstop was disabled with a '!' before the number value. If you open the file in a text editor, and search 'endstop', you'll find it a little over half way down. Delete the exclamation point, and they should all home. I must say though that when I did it, the Y was the one not working. It would just skip it, and home X,Z instead. Afterwards though, it will home X,Y,Z in that order.' I hope that helps for you.
Merry Christmas and happy holidays guys!
|
|
|
|
Post by mgjones on Jan 3, 2017 1:45:35 GMT
I'm running into an issue with the X, Y, and Z axis. They seem to be mixing when using the manual controls on the Viki or in Repetier Host. If I move the Z axis all 3 stepper motors move slowly. The same happens with the X and Y but the steppers move more quickly.
I'm sure I'm missing something basic. Any ideas what it could be?
|
|
|
|
Post by mgjones on Jan 3, 2017 7:37:55 GMT
After thinking through what could cause movement on all threes axis and looking at the config file it occurred to I had a delta printer config file loaded. I downloaded the cartesian config file and things took a step in the right direction. The Z axis moves correctly now. The X and Y still seem to be mixed. My only thought right now is to check belt routing next.
|
|
|
|
Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 3, 2017 12:40:50 GMT
Ahh ok that's good! And to correct the x and y axis, use this guide:
To reverse the motors, if directed below, do so by either unplugging and turning around the plug or reversing motor in config text file on sd card. Go through each statement in order and follow the correction directions if necessary!
IF.....
X and Y axis are flipped (ex telling it to move x actually moves y and vice versa): Reverse one motor (x or y, doesn't matter for now)
X axis is inverted (positive movements go to the left, negative to right): Reverse both motors
Y axis is inverted (positive goes forward, negative goes away and backwards): Flip x and y motor plugs, but DO NOT REVERSE EITHER
Z axis is inverted (positive goes up, negative goes down): Reverse z axis motor
|
|
|
|
Post by dravenm4 on Jan 6, 2017 1:04:55 GMT
So in Repetier is there "printer Settings" that need setup?
|
|
|
|
Post by mgjones on Jan 8, 2017 3:18:27 GMT
New Issue. I thought I was all setup and tried a test print. As soon as I hit print in Repetier the bed started to drop and I had to kill the power to stop it. I tried printing again with the same results. I'm trying to figure out what's not setup correctly. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem is? Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
|
Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 8, 2017 3:32:09 GMT
It's supposed to do that! The z homing trigger is at the bottom of its travel. Just manually move the bed and make sure it engages the endstop at the bottom. As long as it does, you can just let the printer do it's thing and it should stop right before hitting the bottom!
|
|
|
|
Post by mgjones on Jan 8, 2017 20:27:48 GMT
I'm still trying to get the Z axis setup correctly. Is Z0 when the bed is at the top near he print head or when the bed at the bottom near the end stop?
Should clicking the up arrow in Repetier make the bed travel up or down?
|
|
|
|
Post by rock75 on Jan 8, 2017 23:54:49 GMT
I'm still trying to get the Z axis setup correctly. Is Z0 when the bed is at the top near he print head or when the bed at the bottom near the end stop? Should clicking the up arrow in Repetier make the bed travel up or down? Z0 is when your print bed is at the top and ready to start laying down some plastic. When your heated is at the bottom you will be at Z256 (or really close to it). Some of us are actually getting different max Z numbers I noticed. When manually moving the bed up think of this as the negative number, ie. -10 will move the bed up 10mm. positive numbers will send your bed downwards, ie. 10 will move the bed down 10mm |
|
. lol. also i havent figure out why everything works on the lcd but the configure tab. or how i can set this directly to the config file. or eeprom .
