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Post by dravenm4 on Dec 5, 2016 18:54:38 GMT
Did I miss this somewhere or are these not available yet? While waiting on the Bowden adapter I wanted to try and get everything I can finished.
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 5, 2016 20:45:39 GMT
Ah yes that may be a good thing to have! Azteeg X5 Mini V3 PinoutFor the microstepping jumpers, the x and y axis should be set to 1/32 microstepping and the z and e should be set to 1/16. Make sure the power input jumper is not set on usb power, otherwise it will only power up when plugged into a computer! Attached is the latest config file I am using. Note that it is not final, some features still need to be added and implemented and some values need tweaking, but it should work well enough for the time being! For the firmware bin file, click here!(Or visit the smoothieware edge git page to ensure you get the most up to date version) Some reminders: -For the endstops, you only will have a 2 pin connector so make sure you connect it to ground and signal, NOT V+. -The LED's are only 12v, so make sure you wire them in series or else you will kill them! So for example, take LED1 and connect - to the PSU DC ground, connect + to LED2's - wire. Then connect LED2's + wire to the PSU 24V+ output. -Never disconnect a stepper motor or a stepper motor driver while the board is powered on, or you will almost certainly kill the driver! Whoever does the neatest wiring job wins 1,000,000 internet cookies. Good luck! Edit. Apparently there are angry bears on this forum page who like to eat attachments. Don't ask me. Here's a link to the config file! |
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Post by dravenm4 on Dec 10, 2016 22:26:47 GMT
Seem to be having some issues here. Which motor in the top is Alpha and which is Beta on the Azteeg board?
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 10, 2016 23:29:10 GMT
not sure, but there's a way to figure it out just by observing the motion when you use the manual commands.
X and Y axis are flipped (ex telling it to move x actually moves y and vice versa): Reverse one motor (x or y, doesn't matter for now)
X axis is inverted (positive movements go to the left, negative to right): Reverse both motors
Y axis is inverted (positive goes forward, negative goes away and backwards): Flip x and y motor plugs, but DO NOT REVERSE EITHER
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bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95 
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Post by bpopilek on Dec 12, 2016 23:20:37 GMT
My Panucatt order and the extruder adapter both came in today. I'm trying to get the wiring done now. Do we install all of the jumpers under each stepper driver?
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 13, 2016 14:49:33 GMT
My Panucatt order and the extruder adapter both came in today. I'm trying to get the wiring done now. Do we install all of the jumpers under each stepper driver? I'll update the first post of the thread! |
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Post by tkelley on Dec 13, 2016 23:34:40 GMT
For whatever reason, my package from panucatt didn't come with the wiring diagram that shows where the jumpers go for each setting, but I found this online to show what spot means what for the jumpers. my drivers were the SD5984, and they have a diagram on this page that shows what is going on. Just so others don't have to search! |
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Post by dkrockville on Dec 19, 2016 4:11:45 GMT
What is the correct orientation of cable connectors on the Viki Mini and on the X5 Mini board? Looks like connectors can be installed either way.
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Post by tkelley on Dec 19, 2016 18:51:22 GMT
They can be unfortunately, but that means as long as ground matches ground, you're all set. I basically took the red wire, and set it to be next to the ground pin. Also, if you orient it wrong, it won't hurt anything. Just turn it off, and switch it.
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Post by m8kerrc on Dec 21, 2016 3:12:38 GMT
im trying to set my Z home offset and when i press the configure option on the lcd the lcd freeze there . any idea what can be causing this? ALL the other functions are working fine but i cant access the configure option from the lcd. it gets stuck there and i have to power cycle the printer in order to get it to work again.  also this Z home to max is new to me. do i have to set the offset on the slicer or i can set the Z0 on the epprom ? or config file |
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Post by tkelley on Dec 21, 2016 7:30:43 GMT
I set mine in the config. It'll have a value of 258 at the moment, but I changed mine to 262 just to make it so I could tighten down the springs on the bed a bit. I'd check the config file, and debug from there. There may be an '!' that is causing the issue, that's been the problem a couple of times so far. I'll look into it some tomorrow, and see if there's any more help I can give. Good luck!
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bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95
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Post by bpopilek on Dec 22, 2016 0:20:50 GMT
Mine was also set to 262 with my aluminum bed and BuildTak. I had to change it to 256 with my glass installed. And the springs do need to be tightened a fair amount or there is too much wobble on the bed.
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Post by rock75 on Dec 22, 2016 2:01:57 GMT
Mine was also set to 262 with my aluminum bed and BuildTak. I had to change it to 256 with my glass installed. And the springs do need to be tightened a fair amount or there is too much wobble on the bed. I am also at 256 with with glass installed. I am noticing the springs supplied by Andrew seem a little week for some reason. I have switched to silicone on the Eclips3D original and really like the results that has. Seems to hold position much better (actually I never have to adjust it now) before with the springs it seems it was constantly working its way out of level. haven't had any issues with the silicone and I will be ordering some for the Eclips3D2 very soon. Cheers Rock |
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bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95
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Post by bpopilek on Dec 22, 2016 2:40:23 GMT
I am also at 256 with with glass installed. I am noticing the springs supplied by Andrew seem a little week for some reason. I have switched to silicone on the Eclips3D original and really like the results that has. Seems to hold position much better (actually I never have to adjust it now) before with the springs it seems it was constantly working its way out of level. haven't had any issues with the silicone and I will be ordering some for the Eclips3D2 very soon. Cheers Rock I just had to change mine to 257 tonight, I was still noticing too much wobble. Now the springs are almost fully compressed, but the wobble is gone. What do you mean by using silicone? Do you have a link to what you are using? |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 22, 2016 3:20:36 GMT
I'm gonna try out the silicone too (they're little silicone tubes supplied with the aluminum bed that I use). I went with slightly smaller and weaker springs for this printer since less adjustment was needed than on the original Eclips3D, but unfortunately they came out to be much weaker than I expected. They should work fine when tightened most of the way down like other people have found.
The "proper" way to set your offset is to first tighten down all of the springs all the way. Then home the printer and move it to Z0. Next you want to jog past 0 (use a g92 z10 command if you are being stopped by software endstops). Keep track of how far you're moving. Then you will set this number in the z offset within the lcd/eeprom settings (as a positive number). You want to make this so it is about 1mm off of the back middle of the bed. Then you can go abuot with your standard leveling procedure. To fine tune the first layer, you can edit the z offset value. a bigger number brings the nozzle closer, smaller brings further away.
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