bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95 
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Post by bpopilek on Jan 21, 2016 4:53:35 GMT
So one of the first mods I did to this printer was one I had on my 3up. I added a JY-MCU Bluetooth to serial module. It took some detailed looking at the Azteeg diagrams, but I finally found the TX & RX pins, and I am happy to say that this now works perfectly. Programming the Bluetooth module can be a bit of a pain though. I ended up using an Arduino with a custom script to do the dirty work. Now it shows up in windows as a serial device named Eclips3D, and I can transmit to it at 115200. I also looked at adding WiFi to serial to it, but that is even more involved and I ended up connecting up a RaspberryPi with OctoPrint on it. It does work well, but I do have a lot of settings to finish nailing down. If anyone is interested, I do have a extra Bluetooth module that I can sell for $15 + Shipping. Additionally, I added the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller LCD to mine instead of the Vicki. It was considerably cheaper and works perfectly. I did buy the interface board to connect it. For $10, it was a nice and cheap solution to get it connected. I have also been able to add many custom entries into the menu, so I like that feature a lot. Now, I am moving on to some cable management and then maybe an enclosure!   |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 23, 2016 18:00:56 GMT
Awesome Brian thank's for sharing! I actually just purchased the adapter so I can hopefully get my old reprap LCD working with my azteeg!
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bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95
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Post by bpopilek on Jan 25, 2016 4:17:35 GMT
Sweet! I was wondering if you were going to try to get the one working that I knew you bought forever ago! I am attaching the config file that I am currently using in case you or anyone else wants a jumping off point. I have a bunch of custom menu entries already setup. The way the default preheat works is by turning on both the extruder and bed at the same time. I didn't want the hotend heated up the entire time, so I made some custom entries for PLA & ABS that heat the bed, then the extruder, and finally turns on the fan. Took a while to figure it all out, so hopefully this helps everyone by saving some time. Also, I am attaching the GLCD enclosure that I am using. The mounting bracket that mounts it to the aluminum frame does require support material. I found that it works best by orientating it upright and using support on the bottom side. Good luck and let me know if you need any additional info! Attachments:config.txt (13.86 KB)
lcd_box_front.stl (107.51 KB)
lcd_box_back.stl (52.52 KB)
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bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95
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Post by bpopilek on Jan 25, 2016 4:18:27 GMT
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Post by theo1001 on Jan 29, 2016 4:57:49 GMT
Thanks so much for the info. I just got the Smart Controller and used your config changes to modify mine. It's printing now.
Very nice.
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bpopilek
Junior Member
Wax on, Wax off...
Posts: 95
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Post by bpopilek on Jan 30, 2016 5:50:48 GMT
Thanks so much for the info. I just got the Smart Controller and used your config changes to modify mine. It's printing now. Very nice. No problem! That's what this forum is for, sharing ideas and more! :-) |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 30, 2016 14:58:01 GMT
Hah so..as mentioned earlier I just purchased the adapter. Well as it turns out Roy from Panucatt Devices contacted me a few days after that about sending a v2 board for me to try out and do some videos about, so I guess the lcd won't be happening for a while now!
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Post by wasabi on Jan 30, 2016 16:07:14 GMT
Hah so..as mentioned earlier I just purchased the adapter. Well as it turns out Roy from Panucatt Devices contacted me a few days after that about sending a v2 board for me to try out and do some videos about, so I guess the lcd won't be happening for a while now! Looking forward to you v2 review. I assume you'll be installing it in your Eclips3d? I've got one sitting on my desk waiting to go in just haven't gotten to that step in the build. Not much free time lately. |
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Post by jjlink on Mar 31, 2016 23:23:31 GMT
I hooked up OctoPrint today and its working with only one issue; I have to manually send the m190 & M109 commands to heat up the bed and the extruder before printing. Otherwise it just takes off without waiting for the correct temps. I see other posts about this same issue on the net. Has anyone else got this working?
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Post by scottadams on Mar 31, 2016 23:40:35 GMT
I've been considering setting up OctoPrint on an old Raspberry Pi 2 I have laying around with a PiCam. Any chance you have or found a guide on the best way to get it working with the Azteeg (2.0 hopefully)? Sending the heating commands will be a hassle, hopefully we can find a fix for that.
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Post by jjlink on Apr 1, 2016 1:09:04 GMT
I've been considering setting up OctoPrint on an old Raspberry Pi 2 I have laying around with a PiCam. Any chance you have or found a guide on the best way to get it working with the Azteeg (2.0 hopefully)? Sending the heating commands will be a hassle, hopefully we can find a fix for that. I followed Tom's video a few months ago for setup. I did not do anything specific for Azteeg; I just copied the settings I have been using in Simplify3D. I just noticed you can manually set the temps on the temperature page. I did a test print and it worked fine. I used a Microsoft LifeCam USB with it for the video. Getting started with OctoPrint on the Raspberry Pi 2! [2016 edition] www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwsxO3ksxm4This was also useful: OctoPrint and OctoPi Basics Series - Importing A Cura Profile www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUeJrgPUNhs |
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Post by scottadams on Apr 2, 2016 5:16:58 GMT
Thanks, those look like they'll take me in the right direction.
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Post by jjlink on Apr 15, 2016 19:34:21 GMT
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