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Post by all3dprinting on Dec 30, 2015 5:34:40 GMT
I have all of my parts for the eclips3d finally, for the most part all of the printed parts work well except for a few. Although I could have printed these myself I opted to purchase them to support eclips3d.
Part A1, which is the x gantry main, had really poor layer adhesion, I did press the bushings in, but it was so tight as others have said, the rod was difficult to move. I ultimately printed this part again, and should have made the bushing holes larger before hand because even though the part came out great, the holes were still really tight. I did flash the holes with a lighter and got the bushings in and the rods move ok now but may need to reprint again.
The Y rod clamp and Y rod clamp trigger were my next challenge, I split 2 of them putting the rod in, could be a layer adhesion issue again. . Anyways reprinted 2, one thing I didn't check is if they actually fit on the Y axis Plate before I printed 2 more... they don't. All 4 including the 2 reprints do not line up with the holes in the plate. They are out by about .5mm I cannot physically modify these to make them work. Fortunately I can use inventor so I have modified these to suit the plate and am currently printing 4 new ones. Not sure if maybe the holes in the plate are out.. I thought maybe the Y bearing block was the culprit, maybe covering up the plate too much but the part is perfect and I can't see how it could be interfering.
Anyways still working through the rest of the build. And will post an update when I finish and whether I have run into anything else.
If you have purchased the printed parts, post if you have had issues with these particular parts...
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 30, 2015 22:33:31 GMT
I have all of my parts for the eclips3d finally, for the most part all of the printed parts work well except for a few. Although I could have printed these myself I opted to purchase them to support eclips3d. Part A1, which is the x gantry main, had really poor layer adhesion, I did press the bushings in, but it was so tight as others have said, the rod was difficult to move. I ultimately printed this part again, and should have made the bushing holes larger before hand because even though the part came out great, the holes were still really tight. I did flash the holes with a lighter and got the bushings in and the rods move ok now but may need to reprint again. The Y rod clamp and Y rod clamp trigger were my next challenge, I split 2 of them putting the rod in, could be a layer adhesion issue again. . Anyways reprinted 2, one thing I didn't check is if they actually fit on the Y axis Plate before I printed 2 more... they don't. All 4 including the 2 reprints do not line up with the holes in the plate. They are out by about .5mm I cannot physically modify these to make them work. Fortunately I can use inventor so I have modified these to suit the plate and am currently printing 4 new ones. Not sure if maybe the holes in the plate are out.. I thought maybe the Y bearing block was the culprit, maybe covering up the plate too much but the part is perfect and I can't see how it could be interfering. Anyways still working through the rest of the build. And will post an update when I finish and whether I have run into anything else. If you have purchased the printed parts, post if you have had issues with these particular parts... Sorry about your troubles! I'm not sure what the cause of your problems were for both parts you mentioned. I have personally used 2 of parts A1 pulled from inventory on my personal Eclips3D printers just to upgrade their extruder carriages and I didn't have any issues with them, but of course it is possible that your parts came out a little out of tolerance since no 3D printers are perfect and the bushings require really high precision to be press fit in. For the splitting parts, it is very possible they were just a bad print job. I'll have to check though the rest to make sure they are ok. I have no idea what the cause of the misalignment could be though. On the two printers I've built and the few betas which I got a lot of feedback on, no one seemed to notice this problem. Could you perhaps take a picture of exactly what isn't aligning as I'm curious as to what the cause of this issue is. |
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Post by all3dprinting on Dec 31, 2015 5:23:06 GMT
 I tried best I could to get a good pic. You can see the exposed metal where it is not lining up properly.  Y clamp tight against Y slider.  Y slider is pretty clean... bearings went in really snug on that piece but there is a little play when the rod is in (normal?) I was concerned it might have a problem but I think when the belt is pulling both sides will move together... I'm just glad I have a running printer to print new parts... someone who doesn't might get a little frustrated. I have spent 2 times as much time on just this past as I did on all of the rest of the assembly. Oh and for the Y clamps. I made them 30.75mm long (less meat at the back).. but have also split those clamps into a top and bottom piece. It's just easier that the slit method. Had to switch to m3 x 20 mm screws here though. . Couldn't get the m3x16 to bite into the nut.. |
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Post by all3dprinting on Dec 31, 2015 5:28:18 GMT
 is the x gantry, part looked vary different from all of the other parts. Very matte black, maybe a different black?  From the end the layers were just sticking together, I took a knife with very little force and it split right open.  If you look at the honeycomb you can see they are not fusing together. Anyways just for your info. |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 31, 2015 16:22:08 GMT
AHhh ok, for the y sliders the problem is the bearing block and rod clamps go on opposite sides of the plate, not the same side. Looking from the top of the printer, the rod clamps will be on top of the plate and the y bearing block will be on the underside. A little play in this part is ok, it's almost impossible to avoid because of the long rods attached which act as a lever. This will be offset at a later point when properly tuning your x and y gantry, which the current step for is incomplete but I will be working on that today.
For your extruder block, that's definitely a bad run. We did use a different filament for some print jobs as our main supplier (Hatchbox) was out of stock, but this replacement was a high quality and reputable brand so that shouldn't have been the problem. I just checked through all parts A1 we have in stock now and none appear to have any serious de-lamination issues like you see, it is possible it was just a bad run but I'll have to wait until I get some more feedback from others to see exactly what went wrong. Regardless I'm very sorry your parts aren't working the way they should! Let me know if there is anything you need from me and I"d be happy to help!
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Post by all3dprinting on Dec 31, 2015 18:13:20 GMT
AHhh ok, for the y sliders the problem is the bearing block and rod clamps go on opposite sides of the plate, not the same side. Looking from the top of the printer, the rod clamps will be on top of the plate and the y bearing block will be on the underside. A little play in this part is ok, it's almost impossible to avoid because of the long rods attached which act as a lever. This will be offset at a later point when properly tuning your x and y gantry, which the current step for is incomplete but I will be working on that today. For your extruder block, that's definitely a bad run. We did use a different filament for some print jobs as our main supplier (Hatchbox) was out of stock, but this replacement was a high quality and reputable brand so that shouldn't have been the problem. I just checked through all parts A1 we have in stock now and none appear to have any serious de-lamination issues like you see, it is possible it was just a bad run but I'll have to wait until I get some more feedback from others to see exactly what went wrong. Regardless I'm very sorry your parts aren't working the way they should! Let me know if there is anything you need from me and I"d be happy to help! Doh! I see it now lol.. sorry about that.. once I had the Y slider on, it looked the same but I see that they need to be flipped which will keep the Y slider material out of the way which will let the clamps work. I still need to reprint the x gantry main again.. bearing holes too tight, which is funny because I reviewed both x gantry and Y sliders in inventor and they both have the holes at 12.15 mm so they should both have worked. |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 31, 2015 20:00:01 GMT
Yeah that's strange, both have the same dimensions and print in the same orientation so theoretically they should be the same. But again, with such tight tolerances sometimes 3D printers just can't hold it together and a slight variation in filament diameter or a little jitter can close up the hole just a little too much!
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Post by all3dprinting on Jan 3, 2016 6:18:24 GMT
  Had another part fall apart... this is the front piece that hold the hotend in. The part that locks in the gantry main... you can see that there was literally no adhesion where it broke off... |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 3, 2016 17:26:40 GMT
Ah yikes..yeah that's definitely an adhesion issue. I'm suspecting the substitute filament we used for a few runs of parts isn't quite as strong as we initially thought.
The good news with that part (for others at least who can't print replacements) is that the printer will work just fine with it broken how it did, that extra little bit was just more support for the hot end but isn't 100% necessary to make the printer function.
Just a note, I checked over all our inventory of printed parts and it appears all of the parts made with this other filament were shipped out, so the good news is this should no longer be a problem, but to any customers who already received weak parts like this feel free to contact me through the website and I can definitely get replacements sent out!
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Post by all3dprinting on Jan 3, 2016 19:34:42 GMT
Ah yikes..yeah that's definitely an adhesion issue. I'm suspecting the substitute filament we used for a few runs of parts isn't quite as strong as we initially thought. The good news with that part (for others at least who can't print replacements) is that the printer will work just fine with it broken how it did, that extra little bit was just more support for the hot end but isn't 100% necessary to make the printer function. Just a note, I checked over all our inventory of printed parts and it appears all of the parts made with this other filament were shipped out, so the good news is this should no longer be a problem, but to any customers who already received weak parts like this feel free to contact me through the website and I can definitely get replacements sent out! Yes I didn't reprint this part. It was much easier to install without it. |
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Post by bschafer on Jan 5, 2016 21:11:21 GMT
I had the same experience. The lip broke off when trying to install the extruder. I am not sure I could of installed the extruder if this lip had not broken off. In any event like Andrew says its Ok without it. The piece could always be super glued on but I not bothering.
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Rick
Junior Member
Posts: 75 
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Post by Rick on Jan 9, 2016 18:42:45 GMT
 Wow that's some heinous looking ringing. Is that from just having the speed up too high? Rick |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 10, 2016 2:53:10 GMT
Yep exactly rick! Also that piece in particular is rather tricky to print at that point. It could be printed so it comes out quite a bit better looking but it would take significantly longer, and since these are structural parts we are making and it isn't as essential that they look pretty we print at faster settings to make these parts.
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