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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 4, 2015 20:00:09 GMT
Step 14: Y Slider Assembly Part B It says this: 1. Assemble the four idler stacks. The top two are identical and the bottom two are identical. The top two use parts D14 as the base bolt. Notice the error, there should be 2x part D15 above the two bearings (G11) and 3x part D15 below. The top two idlers use parts D12 as the base bolt and have 2x part G11 for the idler and 1x part D15 below. I believe the last sentence should says this: The bottom two idlers use parts D12 as the base bolt and have 2x part G11 for the idler and 1x part D15 below. Thanks Yep you're right, I'll fix that. Thanks!
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Post by jjlink on Dec 4, 2015 22:06:40 GMT
On one of the two Y Slider Assemblies seems to bind a bit when sliding it back and forth on the 335mm M10 Hardened Shaft. The other one moves freely. I have not mounted the one that seems to be binding to the printer frame yet. Any thoughts on what to do with one to make it move more freely? I could re-print the plastic part but the M10 Oil Free Bushings are already installed on that one.
Thanks
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 4, 2015 22:48:01 GMT
You can always remove the bushings from the plastic parts by just carefully pushing them out with a rod from the other side. With the Y sliders, you really want no binding or friction at all. If you do have any, make sure it is even in both pieces. For the X carriage, a tiny bit of friction is actually good and can aid in reducing printer noise.
However when you say binding, do you mean it actually binds up and won't move, or is there just a little bit of friction when you slide it?
Worst case, you can soak the affected part in hot (not boiling) water for a few seconds then slide the rod through both bushings. It should help to align them a little better and reduce friction/binding. However this should be a last resort!
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Post by jjlink on Dec 4, 2015 23:05:32 GMT
You can always remove the bushings from the plastic parts by just carefully pushing them out with a rod from the other side. With the Y sliders, you really want no binding or friction at all. If you do have any, make sure it is even in both pieces. For the X carriage, a tiny bit of friction is actually good and can aid in reducing printer noise. However when you say binding, do you mean it actually binds up and won't move, or is there just a little bit of friction when you slide it? Worst case, you can soak the affected part in hot (not boiling) water for a few seconds then slide the rod through both bushings. It should help to align them a little better and reduce friction/binding. However this should be a last resort! Yes, on one of them there is a lot of friction when I slide it. The other one has a little friction. It appears like they both need some adjustment. Thanks
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Post by jhopiv on Dec 5, 2015 12:54:39 GMT
I had the same problem with my build. There are 2 things it could be. Either the hole that you push the bushing in was to tight and the bushing is to compressed and clamping on the shaft to tight. Or the 2 bushings don't line up straight. You can try putting the shaft only in one bushing and try to tweak it to one side or another the put the shaft all the way through and see if that helps. If it doesn't then try tweaking it another way till you get it smooth.
I ended up getting my X carriage sliding perfect so there was a little friction every where but for the life of me I couldn't get the Y to slide right. It was great I. The middle but at both ends it would bind up a lot. After adjusting a few things it got a little better but still not good. So I put the belt on anyway and it everything moved fine when powered up.
After the first hour of running I noticed that it would have a weird shake to it like the bearing were dry and it was binding so my last ditch effort was to use some gun oil I have and a drop applicator and add oil to the shafts. I have no idea if this is any good for the bearings but right now everything is working great.
I figured I will prong new parts that hold the bearings and buy new bearings and wait till something binds up and then replace all of them. That's my story so far. I'll keep you guys posted if anything else happens.
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Post by jjlink on Dec 5, 2015 14:31:40 GMT
I tried giving the plastic part a several quick waves past a heat gun and that did free it up a bit, but not enough for the Y-sliders.
So I very carefully extracted the M10 Oil Free Bushing from the plastic part with help of my Dremel tool. I will just re-print the part and make sure the bushing holes are not quite so tight this time.
Since I cut the plastic part in half I can confirm that the issue was the bushing hole size being a bit too tight, since just sliding the rod through the half part with only one bushing still had more friction than I would like.
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 5, 2015 19:28:07 GMT
It may help to scale up the y bearing blocks in the x and y directions by just 1 or 2% in order to get a looser fit. Also I've found that cleaning up the edge after printing helps a lot to guide the bushings in better. Of course the fit will vary from printer to printer and there is no way to make this uniform across all printers so it may require a bit of cleanup and work to get running smoothly.
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Post by jjlink on Dec 5, 2015 22:00:29 GMT
It may help to scale up the y bearing blocks in the x and y directions by just 1 or 2% in order to get a looser fit. Also I've found that cleaning up the edge after printing helps a lot to guide the bushings in better. Of course the fit will vary from printer to printer and there is no way to make this uniform across all printers so it may require a bit of cleanup and work to get running smoothly. I'm doing the cleanup work on the y bearing blocks. How much force should it take to insert the bushings? I am guessing I should just do it by hand and/or press it on the table top? Thanks
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 6, 2015 0:40:14 GMT
Yeah they should press in by hand and really not require much force to go in.
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Post by jjlink on Dec 6, 2015 17:05:28 GMT
Yeah they should press in by hand and really not require much force to go in. OK, I cleaned up the plastic part and pushed in the bushings by hand on the table top. So how much friction is OK on the Y axis? Is a little OK or should it (with the metal parts attached) slide down freely when truing the rod vertical? Thanks
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 8, 2015 17:14:19 GMT
Yeah they should press in by hand and really not require much force to go in. OK, I cleaned up the plastic part and pushed in the bushings by hand on the table top. So how much friction is OK on the Y axis? Is a little OK or should it (with the metal parts attached) slide down freely when truing the rod vertical? Thanks There should be just a little bit of friction. There's no exact measurement but if it gets almost stuck and jumps when you first push it when it becomes un-stuck that is too much friction. If when you have a rod in you are able to wiggle it side to side more than a fraction of a mm then it is probably too loose. You want to get somewhere inbetween here, but aim to be a little on the loose side if anything.
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Post by jjlink on Dec 12, 2015 18:48:22 GMT
Just a FYI for the next batch - One of the holes for the M10 Flanged Linear Bearings in the Z Axis Plate was a tiny bit small. It was the left hole, I tried swapping the two Flanged Linear Bearings with the same result. I enlarged the hole a tiny bit and its OK now.
P.S. The photos are nice but I ran out of instruction here: Step 18: Incorporating Z Axis.
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Dec 13, 2015 4:52:37 GMT
Just a FYI for the next batch - One of the holes for the M10 Flanged Linear Bearings in the Z Axis Plate was a tiny bit small. It was the left hole, I tried swapping the two Flanged Linear Bearings with the same result. I enlarged the hole a tiny bit and its OK now. P.S. The photos are nice but I ran out of instruction here: Step 18: Incorporating Z Axis. Hm ok thanks for the info, the old files from 1.0 were a bit tight but I opened up the files for 1.1. I may need to open them up a tiny bit more, I'll have to see how everyone else does with their parts. And sorry about the lack of instructions, they take quite some time to write each step and I haven't had much downtime recently. I will be pushing to finish the instructions within the next 2 weeks as kits start getting shipped! All the pictures are up so it should be possible to finish the printer from there, none of the steps after that point are too complicated.
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