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Post by darkgrue on Feb 12, 2017 20:59:54 GMT
I have an extremely frustrating problem that I am unable to troubleshoot. I have an Azteeg X5 mini V3 board, and Repetier-Host 1.62. I can connect to the board, make manual moves and commands. However, when I start a print, the print will not progress past the bed and hotend reaching temperature. The board will not respond after that without a reset. I've tried up dating the firmware.
I've tried a new SD card.
I'm using a Tripp-lite 1m USB cable with ferrites.
Pronterface appears to behave exactly the same.
My printer's dead in the water without the ability to print.
I've attached my running config, a log of a print run, and the first 100 lines of the gcode from that run. I'm wondering if it's a subtle configuration error, but I've checked everything over and over, and I've run out of leads.
EDIT: Title changed to reflect best description of problem.Attachments:config.txt (20.66 KB)
log.txt (3.16 KB)
test.gco (2.47 KB)
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Feb 12, 2017 22:26:45 GMT
If you're on windows 10, it is probably a driver issue. I don't remember exactly how to fix it but that should at least be a place to start. You should be able to print from the sd card no problem though!
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Post by darkgrue on Feb 12, 2017 22:40:56 GMT
If you're on windows 10, it is probably a driver issue. I don't remember exactly how to fix it but that should at least be a place to start. You should be able to print from the sd card no problem though! I am on Windows 10. However, according to smoothieware.org/windows-drivers: So, not really sure where to go with that. While I was researching this issue, I saw some oblique references to USB power states and power management of the USB ports being accused, but the system I'm on isn't left unattended long enough for power management to be invoked. |
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Post by darkgrue on Feb 12, 2017 22:56:28 GMT
I did attempt a dry print from SD, and that appeared to proceed and I could stop the print without the board crashing. So. Hrm...
I'll note that Repetier was freezing over a TCP/IP connection as well, so not necessarily a USB communications issue.
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Post by animoose on Feb 13, 2017 21:02:07 GMT
I never got the Azteeg X3 (or the MKS SBASE) to work on Windows 10, or Windows 7 for that matter. It would connect but not maintain the connection for long. I spent a long time playing with USB power settings, and I also saw the same problem on two PCs (both Dells, so perhaps it's in their hardware or drivers). And the problem was not in Repetier Host, as connecting with PuTTy showed the same behavior.
However, when this happened, I think there were timeout messages in the logs, and I don't see that in yours. So I suspect that isn't the problem, though I could be wrong. The set up I have now uses Repetier Host on my PC talking with Repetier Server running on a Raspberry Pi, which in turn has a USB connection to the printer. It's been very reliable.
You could also check that the PSU is good - if you see a voltage drop when printing starts that could be it, as that's the point you are probably drawing maximum power (bed+hotend+motors). If you suspect this is the case, perhaps try printing with the heated bed turned off, so that there is a lot less load on the power supply. One stupid thing that tripped me up and at least one other person on this forum was the PSU being set for 220V when it was actually getting 110V. It works partially but falls over under load.
Smoothieware can also abort the print if the temperature changes outside certain bounds, but I think from your config you have this OK.
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Rick
Junior Member
Posts: 75 
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Post by Rick on Feb 13, 2017 22:51:50 GMT
I would recommend setting up a RasberryPi3 with OctoPrint, I never had a lick of trouble. Heads up if you do go this route be sure to get a real RaspPi powersupply it will save you some headaches.
Rick
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Post by darkgrue on Feb 14, 2017 1:05:38 GMT
You could also check that the PSU is good - if you see a voltage drop when printing starts that could be it, as that's the point you are probably drawing maximum power (bed+hotend+motors). If you suspect this is the case, perhaps try printing with the heated bed turned off, so that there is a lot less load on the power supply. One stupid thing that tripped me up and at least one other person on this forum was the PSU being set for 220V when it was actually getting 110V. It works partially but falls over under load. For reasons that I'm embarassed to mention, this did not occur to me. I thought I'd sized the power supply with enough headroom (though not much) for this not to be an issue, but I'm thinking that it very might well be. Turning off the bed got it to start the print run. Nothing's sticking to the bed (tell me again why BuildTak is so amazing?). No seriously, it doesn't want to stick. I'll take suggestions. My 3uP has the same problem with the first layer skating off the BuildTak, and I'm getting pissed about it. =( May have to look at going even bigger on the PS. Suggestions? The one I have claims 30A at 100%. I'm not even sure how to go about sizing it (a good start would probably be to see how much the bed is sucking up, though). |
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Feb 14, 2017 1:56:48 GMT
You could also check that the PSU is good - if you see a voltage drop when printing starts that could be it, as that's the point you are probably drawing maximum power (bed+hotend+motors). If you suspect this is the case, perhaps try printing with the heated bed turned off, so that there is a lot less load on the power supply. One stupid thing that tripped me up and at least one other person on this forum was the PSU being set for 220V when it was actually getting 110V. It works partially but falls over under load. For reasons that I'm embarassed to mention, this did not occur to me. I thought I'd sized the power supply with enough headroom (though not much) for this not to be an issue, but I'm thinking that it very might well be. Turning off the bed got it to start the print run. Nothing's sticking to the bed (tell me again why BuildTak is so amazing?). No seriously, it doesn't want to stick. I'll take suggestions. My 3uP has the same problem with the first layer skating off the BuildTak, and I'm getting pissed about it. =( May have to look at going even bigger on the PS. Suggestions? The one I have claims 30A at 100%. I'm not even sure how to go about sizing it (a good start would probably be to see how much the bed is sucking up, though). Hmm that's odd, 30A should be way more than enough. Depending on your bed it may draw up to 15A, but there's no way the rest of your electronics and hot end are drawing more than 15A additionally combined. But it is possible the PSU is just given that spec and it can't actually reach it. But you may want to test if it is a symptom of too much power being drawn, or if it is just due to the heated bed being powered. You can do this by unhooking the bed and telling it to heat up the bed to something just above room temp, then just heat up the bed thermistor with your fingers or a hair dryer to make it hit that temp, then see if it can print or not. And BuildTak is about as good as painters tape when cold. It only really shines when you print on it with a hot bed. This is the same with most surfaces (PEI included). If you're looking to get good adhesion in cold temperatures, you may need to use some sort of spray or paste type 3d printer bed adhesive. |
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Post by animoose on Feb 14, 2017 2:16:06 GMT
To be clear, I meant turning off the print bed just as a way of reduce the load on the PSU so you can see if that is the problem. Of course, once you've fixed the issue with the printer not responding, you should re-enable it.
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Post by darkgrue on Feb 14, 2017 2:58:41 GMT
To be clear, I meant turning off the print bed just as a way of reduce the load on the PSU so you can see if that is the problem. Of course, once you've fixed the issue with the printer not responding, you should re-enable it. No, I got that, but PLA should still stick to BuildTak without the bed on. I got the printer to communicate with the bed off, but it's still acting up. It'll print the perimeter, then suddenly drastically shift on the same layer, then print some more and shift. The whole print was walking back towards 0,0. I didn't dare let it drift all the way, as I feared the carriage would hit the frame on a move. EDIT: The gross shift appears to be skipping steps on a fast move. Current is set to the rated value (1.68) for the MT-1704HS168A-OB stepper. Slowing down *_axis_max_speed from 21000 to 4800 appears to keep things in the right space (don't know the upper bound where it starts happening yet), but that's crazy low compared to other people's configs. I'm in communication with the Smoothie folks, but I'm running out of things to try. And getting very, very, frustrated. I'll keep going with the suggestions, but when I run out of troubleshooting, I'm seriously considering moving back to a RAMPS platform controller just because I need something that works. The Smoothie features and easy config are sure nice and I don't want to give those up, but it doesn't do me a lot of good if I can never get it to function. Whether that's my failing or the board is just too twitchy is still an open question - I don't want to badmouth the platform without knowing for sure that what I have is even capable of functioning as intended. |
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Post by Consaka on Mar 3, 2017 17:35:48 GMT
EDIT: The gross shift appears to be skipping steps on a fast move. Current is set to the rated value (1.68) for the MT-1704HS168A-OB stepper. Slowing down *_axis_max_speed from 21000 to 4800 appears to keep things in the right space (don't know the upper bound where it starts happening yet), but that's crazy low compared to other people's configs. I'll be the first to admit I don't know everything. I haven't started my 3dprinter. I have a 3up ordered but can get no communication on my order. I also have a smoothieboard I haven't used, still in box. My question is this. Can you turn the current up on your steppers? Just test it with a bit more current. You should be fine unless the stepper gets hot or your power supply is weak. The adjustments on the tinyG are pots and I have mine set at 50% for CNC table I just built. Not sure what that actual current would be. |
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Post by darkgrue on Mar 15, 2017 1:13:34 GMT
My question is this. Can you turn the current up on your steppers? Just test it with a bit more current. You should be fine unless the stepper gets hot or your power supply is weak. The adjustments on the tinyG are pots and I have mine set at 50% for CNC table I just built. Not sure what that actual current would be. I can, but I would be exceeding the specifications for both the steppers and (if I recall correctly) the drivers as well. The Azteeg X5 uses digipots for the stepper current, so you can set it as a value in amps from the configuration file - a very handy feature, to be sure! If anything I would think I should be running things more on the side of lower than the rated maximum, rather than higher. The power supply is still a possible area of problems. I did check the voltage and amperage at load, and didn't see any dips that would call the PS into question, but I also didn't get a scope on it to look for crazy noise or transients that might not be obvious. At the moment, I have the printer apart. I'm planning some changes, one is I'm lightening up the carriage, that might help with fast moves. I was also intending to switch to the new version of the E3D hotend with the silicone heater block socks. And I'm changing the carriage to support the Titan extruder (based on rock75's design, with a number of changes, many of which are to reduce the amount of print support) and adding an Escher3D Mini Differential IR height sensing board. If it makes a difference, the question will remain as to why. We're all running the same design - although... I do admit I have a different stepper on the extruder. One that's a bit heavier. I substituted the OpenBuilds stepper (318 g) used on the axes for the one from RobotDigg (244 g) - 74 g didn't seem like that much of a difference. Perhaps that was a foolish assumption? At any rate, the 142 g stepper I'm planning for the Titan should offset any additional weight from the new extruder (which should be slight) and then some. |
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