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Post by richydr on Jan 17, 2017 20:46:30 GMT
Hi I have some questions about the ECPLIPS3D-V2’s bill of materials. 1) For what concern pulleys, if I go on the website (http://www.robotdigg.com/product/637/2GT-Idler-Pulley-w/-Bearings) I can choose between 6 different pulleys, which one I have to buy? (16T or 20T; 3mm or 4 or 5mm; toothed or no tooth??) 2) I was looking for the NEMA 17 used on Z axis, but the product’s code 17HS3001-350T, isn’t available on the website Robotdigg. Can u tell me another shop where I can find this model? And the threaded rod is an M8 350mm? 3) How much have to be long the GT2 belts? 4) Where do u use the 37mm standoffs? What is their function? 5) Where do u use M2 screws? 6) Why do u use two different type of corner bracket? ( ROBOTDIGG www.robotdigg.com/product/704/Inner-L-connector-for-2020-Profile ; MISUMI it.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300437260/?HissuCode=HBLFSN5-C&PNSearch=HBLFSN5-C&searchFlow=results2products&Keyword=HBLFSN5-C) Why the corner bracket are the first one M4 and the other M5? 7) What is aluminum shim 1mm and where do u use it? 8) How long should be the plate’s springs? 9) Why do u use the Polyurethane Foot Pads instead the 3D printed feet?
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 18, 2017 0:12:12 GMT
Wow lots of questions! Ok here we go!
1. You want 5mm ID, toothed, 20T idler pulleys 2. Hm they should have them, sorry I'll try to find the new part number. They are 350mm long, 2mm pitch, 4 start lead screws integrated into nema 17 motors. 3. Should be on the bom but I believe 2 sections that are 52" long. 4. They go under the base plate for mounting the control board. 5. One of the holes for mounting the hot end is smaller. Alternatively you can just drill this one hole out to be M3 like the other holes on the hotend clamp. 6. Because the one corner bracket is stronger but much bigger and uglier, so that is used in hidden places. The others are not as rigid but are much cleaner and less visible, so they are used on the exterior parts of the printer. You could probably get away with using only the triangle type but I wouldn't recommend it. 7. It is basically a washer and it is used in the idler assemblies. 8. About 3/4" (20mm) uncompressed 9. I do use polyurethane pads on the bottom of the plastic parts. I don't use the pads alone because if you stick these directly to the frame, then you can't take the base of the printer off without peeling off the feet and sticking them back on after. Putting them on plastic parts makes it easier and supports the printer's weight better.
I'll be working on getting the instruction guide together over the next few weeks, this should help solve any more questions you may have!
-Andrew
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Post by richydr on Jan 18, 2017 8:55:46 GMT
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Jan 19, 2017 3:16:26 GMT
That looks like it should work!
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Post by quickbeam on Feb 25, 2017 15:42:57 GMT
Will the lead screw from the 3up work with the anti-backlash nut in the Eclipse BOM? I purchased the nut thinking I could just reuse the threaded rod and am having a heck of a time trying to get it to fit? The rod is (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300mm-Lead-Screw-3D-Printer-Z-Axis-Lead-Screw-300MM-Lead-Screw-8mm-Screw-Pitch-/231394379867?)
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