Z-Banding Fix

[jhopiv]

So I built my Eclips3D almost a year ago and I have to say that it has been amazing but for the life of me i could never fix the Z-banding that would happen on every print.  Look at the pictures and see what i did.  I got all the parts from amazon. 

Attachments:

[jhopiv]

The bigger part is the before and the smaller one is after i installed the bearings and belt reduction.

Attachments:

[jhopiv]

Here is a parts list
40 Teath 8mm Bore GT2 pully -
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9RW2J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BIQU 330mm 8mm T8 Lead Screw Set Lead Screw+ Copper Nut + Coupler + Pillow Bearing Block-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1QJVJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BIQU 3D Printer Timing Belt 200-2GT-6 Closed Loop Rubber Belt 200mm Width 6mm (Pack of 10pcs)-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNT093A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aluminum Spacers - I used 2 6mm spacers on each screw and that seemed to work
openbuildspartstore.com/aluminum-spacers/


Also dont forget to change the gamma_steps_per_mm. Just double the number you had since its a 2 to 1 ratio.

[carlos]

That's a huge improvement, well done. How about the larger pully? You only have the smaller one listed.

[jhopiv]

Sorry I forgot that. The Larger Pully is the the 40 tooth with a 8mm bore so the rod fits inside it. The smaller one is a 20 teath with a 1/4" bore so it fits on the stepper motor. I think its this one.
openbuildspartstore.com/gt2-2mm-timing-pulley-20-tooth/

I guess if you want even more resolution on the Z you can go with a 60 or 80 tooth pully. Really any compo will work but you have to do the math right so you have the right steps per mm.

My z axis is ROCK Solid now with almost no deflection