Increasing build size and alternative extrusion

[carlos]

One of the last parts I have yet to buy is the extrusion. I have a couple of questions on this.

Are there alternative extrusion systems that can be used?

And I was thinking of increasing the size of the build at a later point. So why not buy the extrusion larger In the beginning to accommodate growing and upgrading at a later date. Maybe to fit a 10x10 bed, possibly bigger. But going with the 10" how much more extrusion is needed? 50mm?

Thanks ya'll

[jordan]

If you were to change the length of the extrusion you'd need to adjust everything else that has a set length. Like the smooth rods or the lead screw and belts. But going much larger than what its designed for will make it less predicable with the longer parts you'll get more flex. Imagine a stretch limo without supports added to the frame, It would drive not good at all.

Most of the larger build area printers are using larger extrusion and little to no smooth rod except the z axis.

Id say you'd be happy with the stock printer, at its price point you cant go wrong. At least stock you can almost always get the same results as Andrew has with his printer.

But to answer the question. Just need to know the current build width and add the increased difference to all the lengths. say its a 100mm bed and you get a 200mm bed. everything would need to be increased by 100mm.

[carlos]

Thanks Jordan and great analogy. I actually have longer rods, I was planning on cutting them down to size. But maybe I'll just increase the width and length of the printer and keep the lead screw as is. Or just stick to the original plan. SO many options

Thanks again!

[jordan]

Haha thanks You can still increase the width for x and y but you wont get the same print quality at the same speeds as the unchanged eclipse. you could make it bigger and lower your speeds and accelerations to compensate. Then well you kinda dont have a eclipse3d at that point. you have a slow core-xy with standard print quality. At least thats the what i see it. Im no engineer

The only real upgrades I can think of right now would be a ball screw to replace the lead screw, graphite bushings, a bowden extruder with a geared motor. maybe a volcano head just for fun.
and a enclosure of sorts with a vented electronics compartment. Im thinking about making it removable with a few 24pin connectors from some old power supplies with some 3d printed parts to make it easy to detach the power and controller from the printer. (crazy idea don't attempt )

[carlos]

Out of curiosity, why would the speed and quality reduce? Just trying to wrap my head around things since I'm trying to soak up as much building knowledge as I can.

And I'm totally with you on an enclosure. I'm completely aiming to do just that.This is going to be a few fun months ahead.

[jordan]

The speed wouldn't really decrease but quality will. When you have longer rods or extrusion, the amount of deflection is greater. Thus giving you more ringing and artifacts. If you do increase the size you would have to keep in mind that the larger printer cant move as fast or stop as fast without deflection, so you would have to reduce the speeds to compensate for it.

The best designs are the ones that are solid as all hell, the less flex and higher tolerances = better print quality and accuracy along with repeatability. I would always go for a the designs that are stiff. not ones with overly large build areas. I find myself printing more copies than large items. I have only needed 250mm Y print size once, and the Z axis i think i needed 197mm all i did was print it at a angle with supports.

So if you need a large area don't expect to match the speed and quality. you can get one or the other its always a trade off.

Personally ill be getting a kossel for the taller prints or singular items i wont be mass producing, like what the eclipse will be doing for the next 12 months or more almost non-stop.. once it gets here for now my pimped out prusa is chooching along on the jobs now.

(pro tip) PETG is freaking hard to print go with nylon its easier

[carlos]

I had to read that slowly a few times to understand it a bit better. But I think it makes sense now. So, longer rods increase the chance of vibration and deflection can add to that, which can cause ringing or artifacts. Reducing speed and being rigid can help compensate for vibration/deflection. Thank you for breaking it down for me.

I haven't put on my big boy pants yet, so I haven't gotten anywhere near nylon. Although I'm loving PETG, prints like a dream for me.

[jordan]

Hmm PETG (black) is my enemy right now, red and white are way different to print with.