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Post by travistrue on Feb 24, 2016 8:19:22 GMT
My heated bed begins heating as soon as it's powered on. Repetier and Simplify3D both repeat the heated bed's temperature, but it doesn't appear like I can turn it off or set it. I'll set it to 60 degrees Celsius, and it'll just continue to climb up to 100C. I'll turn it off, and it'll still continue to hear up. I'll change the temp to zero, and it doesn't stop it from, heating. I think it could be related to my wiring or soldering of the heated bed, but not sure how to verify this. I have the ground cable soldered to the two panels on the left side of the heated bed, and the hot cable wired to the single panel on the other side. I have the hot and ground cables hooked up to the drill-down connectors on the Azteeg, and the thermistor is set on the 2-pin jumpers. I'm not sure if I habe the thermistor plugged in the right way since both wires are black. I have no way of knowing which wire is ground and which is the hot one. I've tried flipping them on the Azteeg, but I get the same results. The extruded appears to work fine though.
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Post by bschafer on Feb 24, 2016 19:44:10 GMT
Travis
Neither the heat bed wires or the thermistor wires need be installed one polarity or the other. So switching them at the controller board shouldn't make a difference. However you may want to look at any intervening grounding you made in their supply loops. The grounding may be the cause of your problem. Test this by taking the grounding out of the loops and tie your thermistor and heating bed supply wires directly to your control board. This will tell you if your wiring is ok or not. If not then it could be your controller board or control software.
Good luck
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Post by travistrue on Feb 29, 2016 18:11:48 GMT
Sorry for the late reply. Work's kept me pretty busy. I'm relieved to know that the polarity of the thermistor and power cables don't matter. I thought the instructions mentioned that, but I just wanted to check. What do you mean by looking at any intervening grounding made in the supply loops? Are you referring to how I soldered the single, lengthy ground wire cluster to the two conductive panels underneath the PCB heated bed? Test this by taking the grounding out of the loops and tie your thermistor and heating bed supply wires directly to your control board. My thermistor and the bed supply wires are already directly connected to my Azteeg microcontroller. Should the heated bed be hooked up directly to the power supply instead? |
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Post by bschafer on Mar 1, 2016 15:20:34 GMT
No! If you connected the heated bed directly to the power supply the bed would heat and would continue to heat without any control eventually burning up the heated bed.
The controller board supplies current to the bed heating it until the thermistor tells the bed it has reached temp then turns off the supply of current to the bed. When the temp of the bed subsequently drops in temp below a small threshold the controller turns back on the supply current again. It is this on and off workings of the controller in conjunction with the thermistor that maintains the heated bed at a set temperature. If the thermistor is bad or there is a short or open ( ? ) in its circuit the controller board would not sense the temp of the bed and could continually supply current to the bed over heating it.
You might want to unplug the thermisor from the controller board, with the controller power off, and measure the thermistor resistance (ohms) at its connector to see if it measures about 100 K ohms. If it doesn"t there is your problem. Something is either wrong with the thermistor or its wiring.
The thermistor is a kind of resistor whose resistance changes with temperature. The controller board senses its resistance and thus is able to tell what temperature the thermistor is at. At room temperature the thermistors resistance is about 100k ohms.
Best of luck.
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Post by bschafer on Mar 1, 2016 15:41:41 GMT
What I just suggested is however not likely the your problem given the description of it you gave but nevertheless is a starting point you might want to first check out.
Because you lack the capacity of any control of your heated bed as I understand it. As I read it.... Upon turning on your controller your heated bed immediately starts heating and cannot be turned off suggest either your controller is bad or the controller software is. Try reloading all your software and see if that fixes the problem. If not then it is likely your controller board.
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Post by travistrue on Mar 2, 2016 14:42:52 GMT
Lol agreed! I have NOT not hooked the heated bed up directly to the PSU yet  It's only been connected to the Azteeg, so that the Azteeg can supply the right amount of voltage (affecting the amount of power) to the heated bed, as you outlined earlier. I'd check the resistance of the thermistor, but I won't have a multi-meter handy for a bit. I also don't expect the thermistor is at fault here because the Azteeg is reporting that the heated bed only increases in temperature. I'm assuming that the Azteeg is getting its data from the thermistor, and correctly reporting it, however. You bought up that the board itself could be bad, and that's what I'm starting to think myself. I will try reloading the software. I'm using an Azteeg 2.0 micro controller. At first, I installed the firmware for v2.0 from Punacatt's website, but my computer couldn't pick up the board. After a series of trial-and-error with different config files, and switching between firmware, my computer began to pick up my Eclips3D when using the firmware provided in the Eclips3D website's Docs, along with wasabi's 2.0 config.txt. I found it weird that the v1.1 firmware would work on a 2.0 board, despite the hardware differences, but the 2.0 firmware wouldn't work at all. |
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Rick
Junior Member
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Post by Rick on Mar 5, 2016 19:38:22 GMT
Lol agreed! I have NOT not hooked the heated bed up directly to the PSU yet It's only been connected to the Azteeg, so that the Azteeg can supply the right amount of voltage (affecting the amount of power) to the heated bed, as you outlined earlier. I'd check the resistance of the thermistor, but I won't have a multi-meter handy for a bit. I also don't expect the thermistor is at fault here because the Azteeg is reporting that the heated bed only increases in temperature. I'm assuming that the Azteeg is getting its data from the thermistor, and correctly reporting it, however. You bought up that the board itself could be bad, and that's what I'm starting to think myself. I will try reloading the software. I'm using an Azteeg 2.0 micro controller. At first, I installed the firmware for v2.0 from Punacatt's website, but my computer couldn't pick up the board. After a series of trial-and-error with different config files, and switching between firmware, my computer began to pick up my Eclips3D when using the firmware provided in the Eclips3D website's Docs, along with wasabi's 2.0 config.txt. I found it weird that the v1.1 firmware would work on a 2.0 board, despite the hardware differences, but the 2.0 firmware wouldn't work at all. I find this strange, I used the firmware from Panucatt's website and my own config.txt and the board booted up just fine. I used the following firmware direct from Panucatt. Use Wasabi's config. put both files on the SD and it should go. I installed the driver from panucatt first. I moved the power jumper to USB and plugged in the board to my computer with nothing else hooked up. All 4 LED's lit up and the middle two started flashing. I opened up Repetier Host and had it connect to the board and in the log I saw that the board answered with "smothieware". Once I saw that the board was alive I disconnected it and switched the power jumper back to INT. Dropped it into the bot next and all was fine.. Possibly you where having compatibility problems with the SD card?  Maybe reformat the SD? Use this utility. Use FAT32 file system and uncheck both "Create a Bootable..." and "Create Extended..." Or try a different SD Card??? Or as suggested above you have a bad board.... |
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Post by travistrue on Mar 6, 2016 2:45:27 GMT
The Azteeg's LEDS did the same for me. I'll relay the info to my friend. I think I *may* have used that firmware, or the one supplied by Andrew for it to finally get working. I don't quite remember. This printer was actually a friend's I helped build. The power jumper was set to INT for PSU power for certain. I could recommend having him reformat the SD card. I hadn't thought about that, but still the Azteeg just copies firmware.bin from the SD card on startup, and flashes it to its own onboard storage, right? Then, it renames the firmware.bin file to firmware.cur so that the next time it starts up, it doesn't find a file named "firmware.bin", right?
Anyway, the advice above clears up questions I had about the firmware/config.txt matchup. I'll take that into account once I get a new Azteeg for my own build as mine started smoking... I'm going to assume it's done-for.
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It's only been connected to the Azteeg, so that the Azteeg can supply the right amount of voltage (affecting the amount of power) to the heated bed, as you outlined earlier. I'd check the resistance of the thermistor, but I won't have a multi-meter handy for a bit. I also don't expect the thermistor is at fault here because the Azteeg is reporting that the heated bed only increases in temperature. I'm assuming that the Azteeg is getting its data from the thermistor, and correctly reporting it, however. You bought up that the board itself could be bad, and that's what I'm starting to think myself. I will try reloading the software. I'm using an Azteeg 2.0 micro controller. At first, I installed the firmware for v2.0 from Punacatt's website, but my computer couldn't pick up the board. After a series of trial-and-error with different config files, and switching between firmware, my computer began to pick up my Eclips3D when using the firmware provided in the Eclips3D website's Docs, along with wasabi's 2.0 config.txt. I found it weird that the v1.1 firmware would work on a 2.0 board, despite the hardware differences, but the 2.0 firmware wouldn't work at all.
