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Post by dravenm4 on Sept 26, 2015 22:01:18 GMT
Is the Build plate just a normal 214mm x 214mm MK pcb?
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Sept 27, 2015 21:10:47 GMT
Yes it is, the official one from the BOM is a mk3 sourced from RobotDigg. Just be careful when sourcing, as some cheaper clones of the mk boards have thinner pcb traces which makes them much slower to heat up and hard to get past 60*C.
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Post by dravenm4 on Sept 28, 2015 1:48:32 GMT
Is there room to expand to 10x10? I love the design and how clean the eclips3d is and plan to build it, but my needs are for a little large build area then the 8x8.
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Post by Jordan on Sept 28, 2015 9:13:10 GMT
Im thinking yes. you could expand it. just add the length to all the extrusion and linear rods and the Z axis. But you might run into some issues with flex by adding length to the X axis. slowing it down would help.
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Sept 28, 2015 18:32:22 GMT
Exactly what Jordan said. The mechanics are solid enough at the current size that expanding the x and y axes by just 50mm should not cause any problems, you will just need longer extrusions, rods, and belt sections. The Z axis will be a little trickier, you will either need to redesign the z axis plate or just design an adapter plate to hold the larger bed.
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Post by Jordan on Sept 29, 2015 1:47:22 GMT
I forgot to mention you can section your parts to print and later attach them. I do it lots on my projects.
Soon i'll have 5 printers going 3 will be Eclipse's oh the joys of having a print farm. I cant wait to put a order in once us Canadians get some lovin.
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Post by dravenm4 on Sept 29, 2015 16:48:15 GMT
Jordan how do you go about attaching your sectioned prints? I have not tried this yet but I was also worried about stability of the parts. I am printing a quadcopter frame but it is 314mm in length and being an airframe I was worried about sectional prints. I would be perfectly happy with an 8x8 if it were structurally sound doing it that way..
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Post by Jordan on Sept 30, 2015 18:43:12 GMT
I would design it in a way in to use pins either made of carbon fiber or wood dowels to attach the parts and use a slow curing 2 part epoxy. You can even use the same ideas for more printed parts. you can print a hammer with a hollow handle to put a dowel into. and fill the head with a urethane. I'm a fan of making composite parts. you can add lead shot to low infill parts. Or design it to have channels inside for resin injection to give you a much stronger part. Im not the best a designing things, i just have ideas  |
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Post by rock75 on Oct 1, 2015 2:45:00 GMT
jordan - I was curious about jointing smaller pieces together also and you have some great ideas there. I was thinking simply of printing pins onto one piece and matching holes on the second and using ABS glue like for glueing ABS plumbing parts together. Seems that would be Fast and Strong but I am not sure ABS filament is altogether the same make up and if that would work?? Have you tried something like this or would it just not work and the epoxy is stronger better? My only experience with ABS has ever been plumbing lol and not too sure it was always a successful endeavor at that haha
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Post by Jordan on Oct 2, 2015 7:54:51 GMT
Print register marks on the parts to lock them can only be so strong, but to help you can make the diameter of the pins larger and taller. Then sand the mating surfaces, clean them up and use a chemical that's used to to weld abs together. I can't remember the name of it, buts its some toxic stuff. I picked mine up at a plastics place here call Industrial plastics, you can still use epoxy just use the longest set time 1Hr should be fine you don't want super fast setting stuff as it can warm up and make for some fun. Warping after you print. I have added metal inserts to prints pausing at the right heights, or adding metal powder fills near the last few layers... PS make sure you have the fan off it you add powder fills, makes a huge mess! There are a ton of ways to get more strength out of the parts, by adding ridges to the sides of say a tube to act ask re-enforcement, and printing the part in a orientation that uses the layers in the Z axis to your advantage. print a 5*5*50mm cube, 1 on its side, 1 vertical and one on its corner. You'll see some interesting things. Ps, some more ideas are urethane injected parts, resin filled, silicon fill. but for these you'll need to A. drill holes all in you're nice parts. Or B. make the entire model with custom infill that has channels large enough for the filling. one day ill get around to making a nice composite printed mallet with probably everything mentioned.. someday |
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