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Post by all3dprinting on Oct 30, 2015 23:56:00 GMT
Well... it took a while and was a pain in the butt. printed my dual extruder carriage, Just a holder with a set screw and then a plastic block to hold the extruders in place, this allows me to adjust the height of each extruder. I need to work on the retract settings, dial it in, as well as the offsets between the 2 extruders. You can see that it built a "oozed" block to the right, just from oozing while the other colour was printing. All in all... took longer than I thought to get it working, had my z axis tensioner break on me so that set me back, had hot end issues, Bowden extruder issues, you name it, it happened... The AZSMZ board, Works beautifully, found more info here AZSMZ RepRapWiki, this helped me with the pinouts for the second extruder, The pinouts are not necessarily the same as the smoothie board so that is important to note.
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carlos
Junior Member
Posts: 94
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Post by carlos on Oct 31, 2015 2:29:03 GMT
Well done! Will be great to see how well it performs when you got it all dialed in.
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mg
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by mg on Nov 4, 2015 11:41:53 GMT
So you are operating without any heatsinks on the Pololu DRV8825 drivers. Do you have an infrared thermometer to measure temps during a long print? Do you have a fan on them? What is the 4th driver you have installed? Are you using the same motors as specified in the BOM? I am using heat sinks, on the drv8825 they are on the underside as there is a copper pad under the driver ic allowing the heat sink to draw more heat away. I do not have a fan mounted to the case "yet"... when I close it I will put on to keep the board and drivers cool. I do not have a infrared thermometer, but if I place my finger on the driver ic they are not hot. I have touched one that hadn't had the current adjusted and burned the tip of my finger before... this is nothing like that. . I could leave my finger there all day. The 4th driver that you see is A4988 driver 1/16 stepper driver... 1/32 drivers for the extruders doesn't offer any advantage from what I can tell... but I may experiment with this in the future. I am using generic 1.8a steppers... I have not placed my openbuilds order yet, waiting for the eclips3D kit to ship out first. I didn't see heatsinks available on the Pololu site, if you get a chance can you post a pic of the underside of your 8825 driver showing the heatsink. Where did you purchase your heatsinks? Thanks
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Post by all3dprinting on Nov 5, 2015 3:38:21 GMT
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Post by all3dprinting on Nov 10, 2015 5:00:11 GMT
Some printing results... .3mm on the left, .1mm right. . Heated bed... no fan. printed the benchy boat, .1mm no fan... a little ooze during the cabin portion. The overhangs printed very well. I installed the same bed on my 3uP that is in the bom for the eclips3d. It's a fantastic bed... just using hair spray. Anyways still working on settings but getting pretty great results. An update to dual extrusion, my carrier for both heads just doesn't allow enough micro adjustment to get the heads to the same height, so I am re designing the heads with micro adjustment screws so that you can get them aligned with precision. My thoughts on multi extrusion : It's tough, support material. . No problem works as expected, printing different models with different colors during the same print, no problem works as expected. Printing a multi colored model... you need to make seperate models of each color and then bring it together, simplify3d seems like the way to go to combine the model, but just designing a model of multiple colors seems like quite the undertaking. I'll get there eventually...
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Post by all3dprinting on Nov 16, 2015 6:41:38 GMT
Designed and printed my new dual head mount with micro adjustments in the z axis and you axis. The visible bolt is for clamping the cap against the top of an m3 x 20 bolt, there is a hole in between for the Allen key which will micro adjust, there is about 8mm of travel available, which should be more than enough to get the heads aligned. This is an end view of the mechanism I am using to create the micro adjustment. Each full turn is around .7mm so quarter turns should get me the precision I need. Of course this is just my prototype and maybe it won't work like I think... should have it hooked up tomorrow and will run some tests.
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Post by all3dprinting on Nov 27, 2015 7:18:48 GMT
Getting closer. Had to remove the Y axis adjustment due to the hotend moving to much, so just the z axis micro adjust and it works pretty well. This was a partial print (before the heater core popped out of the block! Good thing I was around....) Had to move on to Cura for slicing though. .. was having so many problems with slicer and the hotend offsets.. once I went to cura everything was working fine. .. but now I need to learn to tweak the settings in there, but seems pretty easy to use.
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Post by all3dprinting on Nov 29, 2015 5:14:30 GMT
Success!! It was quite the effort to get this to work but well worth it! My 3uP is now dual extruding. Can't wait to get the Eclips3d setup with dual extrusion!
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Post by 3DprintedLife on Nov 29, 2015 16:40:50 GMT
Nice! That looks really good!! When/if you end up doing this mod for the Eclips3D you should definitely make a new forum post so people can find your work more easily! It may be a bit more difficult though since the Eclips3D has its nozzle in the middle of the block instead of on the front like the 3uP, but I'm sure you can find a way to make your solution work! -Andrew
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kdan
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by kdan on Nov 29, 2015 20:36:02 GMT
Printed a case for the AZSMZ, you can find it here : Printed a case for the lcd also, control from this lcd works pretty well, although I have no basis for comparison.. does what it should and when you press the knob in you get access to the menu for manual control, selecting your print file from the sd etc etc.... anyways I can see myself using this more without a computer with the LCD hooked up... Nice to see others printing and using these AZSMZ cases. I modeled them back in April right after I got my AZSMZ board. I looked at a number of Smootieware compatible boards at the time, and came to the conclusion that the AZSMZ was the best value. For my money it's a better board than the Azteeg X5. It has more I/O and I personally like the replaceable drive modules. Cooling is a non-issue. The drivers barely get warm. I designed in a cooling fan to blow directly over the drivers anyway. Since then the MKS SBase has come out - which looks like an even better board for the price. It has almost as many ports as the original Smoothieboard for less than half the price. I was going to buy one, but a friend bought one first. Unfortunately, he never was able to get the firmware flashed onto it. It was apparently defective and the seller never helped him to resolve the problem. I like the form factor of the AZSMZ better anyway, and will definitely be buying another for the large format CoreXY design I'm working on. My first AZSMZ board has been running flawlessly on a custom built Kossel style delta printer since April. The documentation is next to non-existent, but the seller will respond to questions. Make sure to print out the schematics, they are most helpful in figuring out the wiring to the ports.
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Post by all3dprinting on Nov 30, 2015 4:05:28 GMT
Printed a case for the AZSMZ, you can find it here : Printed a case for the lcd also, control from this lcd works pretty well, although I have no basis for comparison.. does what it should and when you press the knob in you get access to the menu for manual control, selecting your print file from the sd etc etc.... anyways I can see myself using this more without a computer with the LCD hooked up... Nice to see others printing and using these AZSMZ cases. I modeled them back in April right after I got my AZSMZ board. I looked at a number of Smootieware compatible boards at the time, and came to the conclusion that the AZSMZ was the best value. For my money it's a better board than the Azteeg X5. It has more I/O and I personally like the replaceable drive modules. Cooling is a non-issue. The drivers barely get warm. I designed in a cooling fan to blow directly over the drivers anyway. Since then the MKS SBase has come out - which looks like an even better board for the price. It has almost as many ports as the original Smoothieboard for less than half the price. I was going to buy one, but a friend bought one first. Unfortunately, he never was able to get the firmware flashed onto it. It was apparently defective and the seller never helped him to resolve the problem. I like the form factor of the AZSMZ better anyway, and will definitely be buying another for the large format CoreXY design I'm working on. My first AZSMZ board has been running flawlessly on a custom built Kossel style delta printer since April. The documentation is next to non-existent, but the seller will respond to questions. Make sure to print out the schematics, they are most helpful in figuring out the wiring to the ports. Thanks for creating the case!! So far my experience with this board has been very good... and I have put it through its paces for sure. I originally bought the board for the eclips3d build and was just testing it with my 3uP, but I'm not taking it off this printer, its running too good, so either going to buy another one, or give another board a try, but it will be smoothieware for me for all my boards here on out. Its just super convenient.
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kdan
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by kdan on Nov 30, 2015 19:04:21 GMT
Another reason why I favor this AZSMZ board is that you aren't paying for stepper drivers you might not want to use. You can just make up a plug and connect in a much more sophisticated external stepper driver. For example, I am going to use LeadShine DM422C anti-resonance digital stepper drives in the CoreXY machine I'm planning. I've already used these in a LaserCutter design I'm now building and they are like nothing else you'll likely see in any 3D printer. Amazing smoothness, precision and silent operation. You can get them for $40 ea. on eBay. A little expensive, but if you are trying to build a high quality machine, I think they are worth the price. A lot of the rippling and artifacting you see in printed parts is caused by motor resonances, not necessarily structural frame resonances.
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jos
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by jos on Dec 29, 2015 20:51:13 GMT
I'm really interested in this especially since Panucatt doesn't have the Azteeg X5 in stock.
Also I really want to have dual extrusion capability later.
How are things going by now? Still happy?
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Post by all3dprinting on Dec 30, 2015 5:39:48 GMT
I'm really interested in this especially since Panucatt doesn't have the Azteeg X5 in stock. Also I really want to have dual extrusion capability later. How are things going by now? Still happy? Have used it so much. It is a fantastic controller for the money. I'll be posting my configuration files once I get the controller running on the eclipse..
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Post by bschafer on Feb 1, 2016 6:16:28 GMT
I discovered another 32 bit controller....the RADDS V1.5 which is about $60 without controllers drivers. With it you can also buy drivers with 128 step resolution ....though they are expensive. Can anyone comment on the use of this controller board with the eclips3d? Thanks
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